{"id":5508,"date":"2016-03-10T14:30:20","date_gmt":"2016-03-10T09:00:20","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/13.201.39.237\/?p=5508"},"modified":"2016-03-10T14:30:20","modified_gmt":"2016-03-10T09:00:20","slug":"bombay-meri-jaan-vada-pav-bombil-fry-cutting-chai-mumbai-mirrored","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/13.207.105.184\/?p=5508","title":{"rendered":"What is Bombay without the Modesty of the Vada Pav"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p><span class=\"dropcap\">I<\/span><\/p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> am having a strange, strange day in London. It is my 17th day away from home, the longest I have ever been away. London\u2019s a foodie\u2019s paradise. I\u2019ve obviously OD-ed on fish and chips, I\u2019ve dug into Peruvian food, kangaroo sandwiches, lots of legal steak, and just enough Chinatown duck. Yet, two days away from my flight home, I\u2019m having a visceral craving for ghar ka khana. And I can\u2019t stop thinking about the opening lines of Gerson da Cunha\u2019s poem \u201cBombay wallahs\u201d \u2013 Nowhere is ever home, but this may be the town of least effort for me \u2013 which I heard recently in an interview with <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/mumbaimirror.indiatimes.com\/mumbaimirrored\/episodes\/gerson-da-cunha\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Mumbai Mirror<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">, where the legendary Mumbaikar reminisces about the city. This feeling of longing only magnifies when I find myself standing in front of <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Dishoom<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">, a modern and elegantly nostalgic Irani caf\u00e9-style Bombay food export. All I want is a bite of home and familiar flavours and the menu looks like a Greatest Hits compilation from every khau galli in Mumbai, priced in hurtfully expensive pounds.\u00a0It was hard for my hungry, homesick self to define what I wanted, but I felt like something that tastes like Bombay.\u00a0<\/span>\n\n<span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">That got me thinking, what even is Bombay food? It is firstly, at least chronologically, the food of the native kolis and Maharashtrians. It is Bombil fry, misal pav, and jhunka bhakar. Next, it is food from every community that came from anywhere to help lay Bombay\u2019s commercial foundation. It is as much dhansak as it is masala dosa, it is much bun maska as it is biryani. They are all foods of Bombay, because they were made here, as the city transitioned over the last 200 years from seven fragmented islands, to an embarrassing number of BMWs clogging up Pali Hill. You would be, and pardon my French, batshit crazy to imagine the city\u2019s culinary landscape without any of them.<\/span>\n\n<iframe loading=\"lazy\" title=\"Gerson da Cunha - From Bombaywalahs to Mumbaikars\" width=\"500\" height=\"281\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/HGu54p_oX-0?feature=oembed\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share\" referrerpolicy=\"strict-origin-when-cross-origin\" allowfullscreen><\/iframe>\n\nIn this episode of the #MumbaiMirrored video series, adman, actor and activist, Gurson da Cunha recalls the days when Bombay was a very different city. Where one could safely drink water from any tap and where streets were washed with chlorinated water.\n\nVideo courtesy Mumbai Mirror\n\n<span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Just like a wardrobe, where you stack things to reflect every version of you, there\u2019s food in Bombay that complements every bit of you. When you are feeling jhalla, you can just sit on a footpath and strike up a conversation with a cycle chaiwala, and on payday take a date to a plush Colaba pub for a craft beer. The lanes near Sena Bhavan, is where you go for Malvani seafood lunch. You hit Kalina for northeastern fare, or Fort for an Onam Sadhya. And vada pav is everywhere, but at Ashok, next to Kirti College is where to go, if you want extra crunch. The snack has become synonymous with the city, and if you think about it, it was the Portuguese who introduced us to both the potato and the pav.<\/span>\n\n<span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">In his <\/span><a href=\"http:\/\/virsanghvi.com\/Article-Details.aspx?key=1134\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">blog<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> on the journey of the Portuguese pav, Vir Sanghvi refers to historian Lizzie Collingham\u2019s book <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Curry.<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> Collingham talks about how the Portuguese missed their bread when they landed in Cochin and Goa, where locals were rice eaters. \u201cThey could find wheat flour in Goa but yeast was hard to come by. So they started using a few drops of toddy to ferment the dough and created the various Goan breads we know today: the round gutli, the flat pav.\u201d From Goa the bread travelled to Bombay, where it became a staple, Sanghvi writers.\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0<\/span>\n\n<span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">The food of a place then reflects everything about its history and people, and not just where they came from, but also where they\u2019re going. The Bombay of the \u201950s and \u201960s was truly glamorous, where jazz thrived, as da Cunha reminds us in his <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/mumbaimirror.indiatimes.com\/mumbaimirrored\/episodes\/gerson-da-cunha\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Mumbai Mirror<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> interview. This culture also gave birth to its own food and the city was introduced to the continental cuisine. While most dishes have disappeared from the menu, the <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.livemint.com\/Leisure\/1ZQqeWVjIIqNH2jVjetKJM\/Jazz-on-Chuchgate-Street.html\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Russian Salad<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> has somehow survived.\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0<\/span>\n\n<span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">There was also a humble side to the city, which was home to migrants. Thousands of South Indians came to Mumbai in the early 1900s and settled in Matunga. Caf\u00e9 Madras, Arya Bhavan, and A Rama Nayak Udipi have ruled Matunga for longer than any triumvirate governed the Roman Empire. Students imported from Goa feel at home at New Martin (crumbling Colaba, shared tables, probably no card machine) and those from Kolkata will soon throng the Pujo pandals at Powai and Shivaji Park for some khichuri bhog and mishti doi. You could be from Bengal or Bihar, but you\u2019ll be made to feel like belong to the city in Britannia &#038; Co, where Boman Uncle (RIP), sometimes doled out free custards; his mere presence bridging Bombay to Iran and England.\u00a0<\/span>\n<blockquote class=\"quote--center\">The food of Mumbai then is a lot like its people \u2013 cosmopolitan in nature.<\/blockquote>\n<span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u201cMumbai has always seen migrants from many communities all living side by side with each other; they pick up tastes and techniques from each other and mix them with their home recipes and come up with something new. So Gujarati\/North India potato bonda was mashed into a Goan pav with a fiery masala from interior Maharashtra and you got vada pav. Mysore sambar was sweetened to make it tastier for Gujaratis, and you have Mumbai style sambar. Mumbai mixes everything up,\u201d says Vikram Doctor, one of India\u2019s most respected food writers.\u00a0\u00a0<\/span>\n\n<span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">The food of Mumbai then is a lot like its people \u2013 cosmopolitan in nature. And as the city has changed, its food has evolved too. Today, the humble Parle-G has gone from a generously stacked five-rupee biscuit, to a hipster dessert, served in a cutting chai glass at a Lower Parel food du jour spot. We see bombil go from 400 rupees for three pieces at a dive to 800 rupees for palm-sized bits served with wasabi in Colaba. And iconic thali joints from the Doordarshan era are still going strong.\u00a0<\/span>\n\n<span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Just like Mumbai\u2019s local trains, the food landscape allows for everyone, too many of us, and yet, there\u2019s space for everyone.\u00a0<\/span>\n\n<span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Factories closures like Parle-G or setbacks like what we saw with Wibs come and go. For a city that simultaneously stands and yet prances around the way Mumbai does, its food culture <\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">is locked in a chicken and egg battle of catch up with itself.<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u00a0 We will always have meals that transcend space and time, but fluctuate in price. Like our 30-rupee Bombay sandwich has made it to London\u2019s Dishoom, where it costs so much that typing the number might be ridiculous.\u00a0<\/span>\n\n<span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Mumbai\u2019s bustle (and maybe even its hustle) seem as eternal as our need for carbs (if you don\u2019t believe me ask someone on keto). So like we do when cutting each other on our alleged two-lane \u201chighway\u201d, we find a way. And every now and then, we\u2019ll pause before dipping our biscuit into cutting chai, feel melancholic, and talk wistfully of food from times we believe were simpler. <\/span>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>The food of Mumbai is a lot like its people \u2013 cosmopolitan in nature. And as the city has transformed, its food has evolved too. #MumbaiMirrored is a video series, presented by Mumbai Mirror, that traces this journey, from Bombay to Mumbai. Here we dig into the city\u2019s diverse and flavourful culinary history.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":96,"featured_media":5509,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[7083],"tags":[983,9368,9369,9370,9371,3392,9372,9373,80,9374,9375,9307,2920,9376,9377],"class_list":["post-5508","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-features","tag-bombay","tag-bombay-meri-jaan","tag-bombay-wallahs","tag-bombil-fry","tag-britannia-co","tag-cafes","tag-cutting-chai","tag-gerson-da-cunha","tag-mumbai","tag-mumbai-mirrored","tag-mumbai-street-food","tag-mumbaimirrored","tag-parle-g","tag-russian-salad","tag-vada-pav"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v28.0 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>What is Bombay without the Modesty of the Vada Pav<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"The food of Mumbai is a lot like its people \u2013 cosmopolitan in nature. 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